Toddbits – Strange, But True.

We fly back to the United States tomorrow (are you ready for us?), so this will be my final post from Costa Rica, but don’t worry, the hugely popular Toddbits series will continue from the U.S.  With that said, here are a few things that have been on my mind lately:

1.  I can count the number of times I have shaved in the past 9 weeks on 1 hand.

2.  The  last time I went 24 consecutive hours without seeing Kate was in February, almost 6 months ago.

3.  The last time I went more than 2 (non-sleeping) hours without seeing Kate was at least 62 days ago.

4.  Last summer I watched at least the highlights of more than 100 Detroit Tigers games.  As of today, I have not watched 1 second of their last 53 games.

5.  I’ve had sushi more times with Kate in 2 months in Costa Rica (2) than I did with her in the last 18 months in Grand Rapids (1).

6.  My friend Justin Amash is running for Congress, and the primary election is tomorrow (August 3).  If you are a resident of greater Grand Rapids, PLEASE go out and vote for him tomorrow.  Click here for more information about Justin – but what you really need to know is that Justin is honest, hardworking, and cares more about doing what is right for West Michigan than any person I know.  Since we’ll be traveling tomorrow, I won’t be able to vote – so that means that you, proud followers of ToddAndKate.wordpress.com, are going to have to vote for me.  Please help me out here.  Thanks!

One Last Adventure

Today, Kate and I put on our tourist hats for the last time in Costa Rica and went snorkeling.  Ok, I guess they’re not tourist hats so much as tourist outfits (bathing suit, t-shirt, flip flops), which are actually identical to the typical tico outfit, minus the fact that Kate doesn’t wear her clothes 2 sizes too small.

After a bit of difficulty, we hooked up with Seabird Sailing in Playa Flamingo, and they provided us with a perfect snorkeling trip.  We set off for the Catalina Islands, along with a group of high school students, on Seabird’s catamaran.  On the trip over Kate and I were served snacks while we laid out on the boat’s hammock-like bow netting.  We were even treated with a front row viewing of 2 turtles mating.  Once we arrived, we geared up and started snorkeling.

Despite her illustrious career as a swimmer and swim coach, Kate is notoriously a ‘pool only’ swimmer.  She doesn’t particularly like lakes or oceans, as “you can’t see what’s underneath you!”  Nonetheless, she braved the open water, did a bit of diving, and ultimately declared snorkeling to be fun.  Though I hated competitive swimming as a kid, I’ve taken quite a liking to water sports over the years, and since learning to scuba dive a few years back, I’ve discovered that Sebastian was right: “It’s always better, down where it’s wetter.”

We had a great guide who found a lot of life for us to interact with: an octopus (don’t mess with the tentacles – they’re harmless but tough to get off you), a few blowfish (quite slippery), a sleeping turtle (it didn’t like our presence much once it woke up), a starfish, a few oysters (which I ate once we got back onto the boat), and a few scallops (which I also ate raw – while snorkeling).

The guide provided a real treat when he cracked open a scallop with his knife, and put it on the ocean floor — starting an absolute feeding frenzy.  There were easily 100 fish swimming around us pecking and diving at the scallop.  It was great to watch.

Once back on the boat we headed for home while they served us lunch.  An unexpected bonus to cap a great final tourist adventure.  Hopefully the pictures below will show how much we enjoyed this.

Things We Did Not Buy in Costa Rica

Yes, that is a collection of terrifying skull-shaped piggy banks.

A page out of Jamaica’s playbook.

Yes, they expect you to put Donkey’s milk ON YOUR FACE.

Now if they had Todo Pulpo, or Mundo del Unicornio, it would be a different story.

I’m more into freeing Willy than eating Willy.

On Things Missed

Our time in Costa Rica is drawing to a close, and I’m starting to look forward to returning to the U.S.

Here are a few thoughts on what I have and haven’t missed about the U.S., and what I will and won’t miss about Costa Rica.

What I’ve missed about the U.S.:

All things food: I miss having a grill and fully functional kitchen, including a toaster.  Everyone here has toaster ovens that only sort of work (which is true about all appliances here).  I’m ready to be done with them.  I miss American grocery stores with their higher standards for what constitutes “fresh” produce, and while I’ve come to appreciate the value of eating seasonally/locally, sometimes I just really want asparagus or avocado, and am willing to live with the fact that it traveled a long way before winding up on my plate.

Functional technology:  2 weeks into our trip the keyboard on my laptop finally broke.  It took another 2 weeks before I was able to get any type of temporary replacement (thanks,Mom!).  I’ve missed the ease of communication in the U.S. that comes from having a cell phone (mostly for sending text messages) and a reliable internet connection.  Oh, and it’s been 2 months since I watched even an inning of a Tigers game.

Friends and Family:  I love Kate.  I love her more today than I did when we got here, and cannot say enough about how much better this experience has been as a result of her being here with me.  With that said, I miss my friends and family.  I don’t like that I have to schedule phone calls with my parents.  I don’t like that I’ve missed a number of weddings, parties, events, get togethers, and celebrations (both big and small).  I’ll be happy to feel connected to more than one person when we get home.

What I have not missed about the U.S.:

Americans:  Frankly, we are a really annoying people when you take a step back.  In large part we are greedy, demanding, needy, and oblivious.  Down here, most of the Americans are people who couldn’t cut it in the U.S., so they came down here to be a gringo.  For a prime example, please see the following Craigslist ad:

El Cap

What I will miss about Costa Rica:

Guanacaste: We’ve spent the majority of our time in the western portion of Costa Rica known as Guanacaste.  It is full of incredibly friendly people, has wonderful beaches, and is sunny 80% of the time.  This is a great part of the world, and I’m already looking forward to coming back some day.

The Kids at Abriendo Mentes:  After 5+ weeks of working with the same group of ~20 kids, I feel a strong connection to both the program and the kids.  I really want to know what happens to these kids in 5 years, 10 years, etc.  I’m excited to hear about how this program changed their lives.  Also, I’m really going to miss the consistency these kids bring to class every day, and the ability to joke (in English) about the kids with Kate, Drew, and Meradith.  I love that every day 2 of the little boys respond to the question “How do you feel today?” by saying “I feel estrong” while flexing their biceps.  It is hard to leave knowing that we’ll likely never hear that response from those kids again.

What I will not miss about Costa Rica:

The fact that nothing works here:  Meradith and Drew have a bumper sticker that says “Costa Rica – We make easy hard.”  Truer words have never been spoken.  The power goes out a lot.  The showers are mostly cold.  No one has a dryer, and the washing machines are sketchy at best.  You have to get by with what you have because no one ever has the tool you really need to do something properly (like make toast).  There are no street signs.  You’re as likely to see a “Burger King – 8 km ahead” sign as you are to see a “Liberia – 8 km ahead” sign.  Nothing happens on time.  Things are often closed for no apparent reason.  If you’re not operating on a very calm and relaxed level, this country can be maddening.

Sweating;  It is ALWAYS hot, and we have lived in a state of perpetual state of perspiration for long enough.

Travelling:  I will not miss living out of a suitcase, constantly being only semi-sure of where we are going, or Costa Rica’s awful, awful roads.

We are 10 days away from coming home, and I can’t really believe it — but thankfully, I feel ready.

A Post About Coffee

Being in Costa Rica, coffee is everywhere.  All of the souvenir shops sell coffee and coffee-related trinkets, every tourist town has at least one coffee plantation to tour.

The view from a plantation we toured.

I’ve been drinking black coffee every morning (more or less) for the last 4 years, and I have a long-running personal debate that I’m looking for input on: Do you prefer the taste of coffee that you brewed, or that someone brewed for you?

The case for your brew: You are in control, and can make it to just your favorite specifications; you get to enjoy the aroma of coffee brewing in your house.

The case against your brew:  There’s no one to blame but yourself if the coffee isn’t very good; often times you are stuck with the same blend/flavor for weeks at a time; you have to put in the effort.

The case for others’ brew:  A good cup of coffee when you’re out to breakfast/brunch is more appreciated than a good cup at home (where it is fully expected); you don’t have to make it yourself.

The case against others’ brew:  It costs more; you never know what you’re going to get; frankly, a lot of offices/restaurants have terrible coffee.

Kate enjoying the view.

What do you think?  What factors into your decision?

Toddbits Dos

1. As you probably noticed by the title of this blog post, my Spanish is improving.

2. For those of you who have been anxiously waiting, Kate and I have chosen this as our engagement photo:

Engagement photo.

Moms/Dads, feel free to pass that along to the Press.

3. Below, please find the quintessential photo of Kate on a horse.

At least she looks good in her helmet.

4. More than a few things in Costa Rica are not as they are in the United States.  One example: the combination of banking and humor/sarcasm.  In the U.S., there is no combination.  In Costa Rica, you get examples like this message, which was displayed on the screen of the ATM during my transaction at a branch of the national bank of Costa Rica this week:

“You took to (sic) long to retreive your money from the ATM, so the bank will be keeping it.”

5. Another thing that is different down here is water slides.  In the U.S., lawyers have come in and regulated most of the fun/danger out of water slides.  Not so in Costa Rica, where even the water slides at your local hot springs involve speeds in excess of 45 kph (or at least water slides that advertise “this slide is designed to carry passengers at speeds of 45 kph.”)  As you can see in the video, the slides are fun, but during the ride you’re traveling fast enough to feel that flight is a legitimate possibility at any moment, and at the end of the ride, you, your nose, and the water participate in a highly uncomfortable menage a trois.

Gettin’ Jiggy Wit’ It

“Na na na na na na na. Na na na na na na getting jiggy wit’ it.” – Will Smith

Kate and I be-bopped around southern Guanacaste this weekend to the sweet sounds of Costa Rican radio (there are only 2 English-language stations), listening to 1990s favorites Will Smith, The Cranberries, and that odd spoken-word song about the long-term benefits of sunscreen (which, strangely, we heard twice in 2 days.  Apparently they are serious about getting Americans to wear sunscreen down here).

Our trip began with a “30 minute” walk to Playa Flamingo.  After 40 minutes, we mercifully ran into Meradith and Drew, who drove us the last 2+ miles.  Playa Flamingo is a bustling metropolis compared to Potrero, with dozens of shops, hotels, and bars.  In an amazing example of modernity, we rented an automatic transition Hyundai Tucson SUV with cruise control, air conditioning, and power everything.  Kate liked the car so much that she’s considering changing her dream car from a Ford Escape Hybrid, to the Tucson, as she is already a Hyundai owner.

Fresh Coconut Milk in Tamarindo

Our first stop was in Tamarindo, a typical beach town, where we found a Subway and TCBY.  From there we headed to Santa Cruz, where we ate a traditional Costa Rican Casado (rice, black beans, meat, lettuce salad, noodles, fried plantain), minus the plantain, at Coope Tortilla.  Coope essentially means “Co-op” and at Coope Tortilla, a group of 7 women cook all day while the one male employee cooks the tortillas in a large stone oven.  There are no menus at Coope Tortilla, you just show up and 5 minutes later are served a hot plate of whatever delicious food the ladies have cooked up.

Todd's First Casado

From there we headed to Nicoya, a town known for its fresh fruit and vegetables.  We stopped at a roadside fruit stand and picked up a variety of fruits and vegetables (yucca, plantain, a whole pineapple, carrot, corn, potatoes, chayote), which we’re planning to turn into a traditional Costa Rican stew later this week (results of which, obviously, can be found at www.toddandkate.wordpress.com, later this week).

La Vista Especial

From Nicoya we headed towards Samara.  The view from the road was stunning.  Rolling greens meadows spotted with cows and horses, mountains topped with rows of what look like Joshua Trees, and low-hanging clouds covering the tops of thick, green, rainforest-esque landscapes.  We stopped at a bar advertising a “vista especial” for a beer and a breathtaking view.  It’s important to note here, that if you attempted a pub crawl between any 2 towns in Costa Rica, you would never make it.  There are bars every quarter mile, at least.  It’s as if every time anyone driving the roads ever got thirsty, a bar immediately popped up.  How they all stay in business, I have no idea.  We stopped at exactly one, and passed probably 150.

Enjoying the View

Upon arriving in Samara (which, despite what Kate says, I’m pretty such is Spanish for “hippie beach”), I felt like I was back at the Rothbury Festival – the streers were lined with young Americans and Europeans selling hemp necklaces, tie-dyed beach towels, and those maddening sets of 3 rubber sticks with which, supposedly, you hold one in each hand, and keep the 3^rd, and largest, stick aloft by alternatively hitting it with each of your 2 sticks.  I was always terrible at those things, though I do remember my brother Scott becoming a rather accomplished 3-stick handler back in the day.

The beach at Samara

Beach soccer

We watched a game of beach soccer in Samara which began promptly at 5:00 p.m. and consisted of every Costa Rican male in the town under the age of 30.  As you can see, it’s quite a place to watch a soccer match, even if the play is a bit disjointed.

We began our trip home by attempting to take the non-highway route home, only to quickly discover that dirt and gravel roads with potholes the size of our car were not particularly fun to drive.  Thankfully, there is always a paved road to get you where you need to go in Costa Rica, and by “a” paved road, I mean “one” – therere is always one, and only one, paved way to get between Costa Rican towns.

Overall it was a great little road trip, capped off by a pretty wild (for Potrero) evening back at home involving a live Guanacasten band and a baile/reinado (dance/pageant).  I’ll say this: Kate and I did not hit the dance floor because these locals have some serious moves.

Your Guide to Our Trip

Here’s everything you need to know about our stay in Costa Rica.   Click here for the full PDF.